Ananse Kwae: A place of healing

By Tete Cobblah

Spirit of Life, come unto me.


Sing in my heart all the stirrings of compassion.


Blow in the wind, rise in the sea;


Move in the hand, giving life the shape of justice.


Roots hold me close; wings set me free;


Spirit of Life, come to me, come to me.

– Carolyn McDade

Spirit of life

On my trip to Ghana this past July, 2021, in a year of possibilities, tragedy and a scary pandemic, I knew that directing the Witness Tree Institute’s two-week program would be daunting. So, I sought and found strength and resilience in the familiarity of the Elmina and Cape coast. But I also found, inadvertently, what would complete my search and make whole my method for restoration: a place for the beginning of healing. A place for deeper reflection. A place called Ananse Akuraa at Mampong, in the mountains of Akwapim.

Ananse Akuraa and Kwae: A sacred place of ancient songs

I call them sacred places. These are symbolic parts of our history where human weaknesses and misdeeds have stained the land, and created tragedy and loss. Places where suffering has bred sacrifices and resilience. Places where atrocities have been hidden from human-telling of the past because the tongue can no longer continue to shame itself, and where pride and selfishness have submerged truth but for a little while, and all this while, the world still turned slowly towards Justice. Sacred places.

I also think of these sacred places as places of healing, and learning. But when the Witness Tree program embraced the idea of visiting 88-year-old Professor Kofi Asare Opoku and his acres of herbal plants and vegetation as a workshop for the institute, I had no idea that I’d learn how these places of hurt and pain don’t only have to remind us of loss but also discovery, hope and homecoming. 

It is not enough to see Ananse Akuraa, (Ananse’s village) where a concrete circle has been constructed for sitting and reflection. A humble dwelling place sits among trees, protected from sun and rain. Behind the dwelling place is Ananse Kwae (Ananse’s forest), acres of land and medicinal vegetation, the vision and stewardship of Prof. Kofi Asare Opoku, a retired lecturer of the African Studies department of the university of Ghana.

Professor Kofi Asare Opoku leading a discussion at Ananse Kwae

Professor Kofi Asare Opoku leading a discussion at Ananse Kwae

Here on August 1, 2021 members of the WTIG cohort 2021 reached beyond themselves and found deeper understanding in each seed, root, vine, leaf and native story that was shared, and also intimate connection. At the end of the workshop, and as we walked away from Ananse Akuraa, words of WEB Dubois came to me quietly out of the folds of greenery and serenity- "When you have mastered numbers, you will in fact no longer be reading numbers, any more than you read words when reading books. You will be reading meanings.” 

So, I have emerged from this experience with some other thoughts and practices to share with you. You may have heard them before somewhere but I’ll emphasize them today…

Find a place to meditate and reflect

Find a place like Ananse Akuraa for daily and active reflection. Each day, use this place as a “provocative symbol” for an idea, experience, exercise, action plan or a source of healing and comfort. You may find communication with the earth accessible, and your role as guardian of the earth would become clearer. Your faith in life and humans may be deepened. “As you live, believe in life! Always human beings will live and progress to greater, broader and fuller life. The only possible death is to lose belief in this truth simply because the great end comes slowly, because time is long." – The voice of Dubois connecting us to hope.

Tell stories. Use proverbs.

Teach through stories and proverbs. “The right hand washes the left hand, and the left washes the right.” This Akan proverb is an example of how proverbs can allow us to internalize philosophical and moral questions. Humans have limitations. You cannot go it alone. We need each other. Collaborate, cooperate and share. We all learn better through stories, especially children. 

Listen (to the trees) and Justice.

At one point of our visit to Ananse Akuraa, Professor Asare Opoku asked us to put our ears to the heart/middle of the trunk of a Kyenkyen tree, whose bark was once used for clothing by our ancestors. We all listened and heard different “things”. He said, “I like to think I am hearing the voices of my ancestors.” Then I asked myself questions prompted by the experience and my interest in social justice. As an agent of change, do you hear anything? What do you hear? If you don’t, what noise prevents you from hearing? Perhaps your very life depends on what you hear. If in your day to day life, in your neighborhood, classroom and town you’ve heard these cries before or witnessed lives interrupted, what are you going to do about that?

Cohort member Cidi listening deeply to the trunk of a Kyenkyen tree

Cohort member Cidi listening deeply to the trunk of a Kyenkyen tree

Be intentional 

For the first time on my trips to Ghana, I became intentionally reflective. I wrote, I sang, I embraced silence and I opened my heart. Pay attention to your experiences in life. As I wrote in one of my WTIG editorials, “If we pay close attention to our lives and our responsibilities towards each other, we will understand that we are all witness trees to the historical, emotional, poignant and consequential happenings around us.” If you have witnessed, so have you the responsibility to act. For example, I read a few days ago that the UN is warning that our world is in crisis. We know that this has been the truth for a while. As a teacher or leader, come up with an action plan to create positive change, and share it with a child, student, a friend. Challenge your neighborhood to act. Don’t waste time because there is no better day to protect the future than now. 

Be a Guardian of the Soil

Just as Ghanaian ancestors have charged chiefs, queen mothers, leaders with the guardianship of their lands, so have many native peoples charged their citizenry with that responsibility. Learn about those who worked and lived the land on which you dwell. Study their ways and be guided by their wisdom and yours too. 

Look for Healing

We all bear scars. These are reminders of our vulnerability and fragility. That is why we always seek opportunities to heal. See how nature recycles itself and life through natural disasters, death, world calamities? And then comes the healing. Sacred and natural places remind us of their ability to comfort and heal also. But I think we must embrace all of nature – its grief, sadness, temper, death, pain, joys, triumphs and uncertainties – all will come to us one day. But the path to “Healing” may only come to us when we sit with nature and embrace it fully. 

Reflect & Meditate 

Just as nature resets and renews itself, find professional development and personal growth opportunities to reset your learning. You are committed to lifelong learning. There is so much to be enriched by. Stay open-minded. Sidle up to difference. Search, explore, learn and then act from a place of truth, not blindness, fear or myopia. As Professor Asare Opoku said, “There is learning in every forest.” Learn to support others and be a collaborator. “The right hand washes the left; the left washes the right.” Professor Asare Opoku said. “ Every human has a limitation. We need each other. The way to overcome the limitation is to collaborate.“

Honor diversity and difference

I just took a liking to the Hanging lobster claw Heliconia or false bird of paradise (heliconia rostrate). I am told some of these beautiful fruits grow upright, others upside down, but both provide nectar and water for birds. That is just one of many instructive plants at Ananse Akuraa that caught my attention. Each plant has a story. Each story lifts another plant up (even parasitic plants play a role in balancing the ecosystem) thereby enriching the forest. Humans are part of this. Make respect for Diversity and identities part of the culture of your classroom, institution and life because we all, like the birds, benefit from our strengths. 

Express gratitude each day

Even though we learn from experience, I have found out that deeper learning comes from reflection. So at Ananse Akuraa, all the lessons of WTIG program 2021 came to meet in one place – Gertrude Fefoame’s eloquent, honest and passionate retelling of her journey from (dis)ability to ability, the dungeons of Elmina and Cape coast arrived with their muted moans and chains, the steady streams formed by the Pra river as it gathers the remains of its children’s skins found its place amongst us, and the gentle dirges and proverbs in song from the brilliance of Agya Koo Nimo, and the wisdom of the wind as it carried all of our lessons to Ananse Kwae. I also heard the comforting and ever-present voices of my deceased parents and forbears like the susurrus of the sea, and my eyes welled with tears of gratitude. Recognizing and appreciating what you have been gifted, and blessed with, brings contentment and peace.

What next?

What do we do with our personal experiences and thoughts at a place like this? Of all the people who nurture young minds, none feel a more urgent need to do the right thing than teachers. The Witness Tree Institute of Ghana believes that each participant in its program, by experiencing and reflecting on themselves, their place on the planet, far-reaching historical events, traditions and the rich culture of Ghana, becomes “a witness tree,” and goes out to responsibly share what has been stimulated and uncovered by our program. 

What seeds are you going to sow today and tomorrow?

 - Tete Cobblah

I am not alone in finding deep meaning at Ananas Kwae; other members of the WTIG team offer their reflections below from this unique, sacred place.


A Ghanaian proverb reads: “Knowledge is a Baobab Tree - one person cannot wrap arms around the trunk, it takes many holding hands to hold the trunk.

At Ananse Kwae, this proverb comes to life.  The “Spider’s Village” is a botanical garden of medicinal plants, and we learn - this plant helps lower blood pressure… this tree relieves malaria… that leaf inhibits cancer.

The knowledge of these plants and their uses remains with the traditional healers and keepers of indigenous knowledge.  There is a wealth of knowledge held by elders that grows and blooms in the garden.  But these practitioners arms alone are not long enough to hold the trunk of the Baobab tree.

Western science relies upon trial and error, observing, hypothesizing, experimenting, and revising in a never ending cycle of enhancing understanding.  Alone, these outstretched arms are not long enough to surround the Baobab tree.

Instead it is the indigenous knowledge held by tradition and elders coupled with the knowledge built up by trained scientists that can encircle the Baobab tree.  Together, these keepers and practitioners construct the knowledge of our understanding of the universe.  These linked arms make humankind complete and holistic.  And it is in this way, that the botanical gardens of Ananse Kwae is the Baobab tree that holds our world together.

–David Duane


Visionary educator Seymour Papert expressed that learning something new is like getting to know a person; be it Newtonian Mechanics or Hegelian Philosophy, understanding complex concepts looks less like “school” and more like the way we meet a new friend – through different experiences, conversations, and events, they slowly reveal to us the complexity of who they are.

About 15 minutes into our time at Ananse Kwae it became clear to me that we were not being introduced to a piece of property with some impressive flora; we were meeting a new friend and great teacher – Nature herself. We encountered a tree, paused to admire its beauty, luxuriated in its cool shade, and felt a tranquility in gazing at the perfection of its symmetrical leaves. We went deeper, as our guide Prof. Opoku explained to us the symbolism of this tree in Ghanian culture and the way societal norms and values are passed on through nature from generation to generation; we picked off a leaf, split it open, allowed its cooling juices to soothe our skin; Prof. Opoku went on to describe the economic impact of the plant’s fruit on the livelihoods of the people in the community who are directly affected by its production and trade. I watched its shadow dance in the wind. 

If this experience were a course in school, what would it be called? “Medicinal Botanical Economics and Aesthetics 101”? Most people would laugh at the idea of thinking you can know a person because you read a textbook entry about their personality. Yet so often that’s how we treat learning. There is no textbook or worksheet that would do justice to the experience we had getting to know Ananse Kwae. And just like getting a know a person, each new encounter with this rich land would offer new insights and experiences, as is evident in Prof. Opoku’s expertise of the land, for which he himself is a life-long learner of its teachings.

So rare is the chance to viscerally experience such rich ideas and to witness the interconnectedness of the natural world and the people who inhabit it. May I strive to offer the gift of experience to my students as Prof. Opoku has offered to us.

– Rosalie Norris


At Ananse Kwae last Sunday we were surrounded by a diversity of plants and trees full of life-giving properties, insects and birds thriving on a shady slope together. Our WTIG cohort- another collection of diverse identities was treated to coconuts, oranges, pineapples and Professor Opoku’s love of proverb wisdom at his beautiful curvilinear stone gathering place following our walk on the lush grounds. Letting things grow and creating microclimates of learning; offering nourishment; wondering, wandering and finding answers; feeling the thrum of life among the trees and among WTIG participants were especially in play at Ananse Kwae.

Nature was doing under Prof. Opoku’s care what the Witness Tree Institute was designed to do-provide conditions for growth, exchange and learning in the moment with benefits in the future. At Ananse Kwae, Agya Koo Nimo’s story from our visit to him a few days earlier was echoed, of an old man planting trees that, while he may not live to enjoy, he finds meaning in planting for the pleasure of those yet unborn. WTIG looks forward to returning to Prof. Opoku’s sanctuary and supporting efforts to create restorative natural spaces where trees are allowed to grow. We wish him well in his meaningful and important work. Ye da’ase pa paa pa!

– Elizabeth Cobblah

Return: Final Reflections from the 2021 Cohort of Educators

When there is a big tree, small ones climb on its back to reach the sun.

My heart is packed with proverbs; my bag, hibiscus. Thank you, Witness Tree!

– Rosalie


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I am from seeds and nurtured ashes that will rise with the sun.

– Tete


I have been changed forever by my experience in Ghana - by its beauty, the people I’ve met along the way, by the lessons I’ve learned about its history, and by the traditions that have been so generously shared with me.

Looking back through my photos, I was drawn to the photo of leaving a wish on a leave to float down the river at the Slave River site. And so my wish as I leave Ghana is for continued success in achieving the Witness Tree vision and to continue the connections made during WTIG2021.

– Sara


We are all at different points in our journeys. I am so glad we shared in this path of growth and joy together.

– Julie


If there is no music, there is no life.

– Cidi


Negative shapes, positive shapes. Light. Shadow. What is being left out or overlooked teachers and learners keep asking, keep answering, keep witnessing.

– Liz


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This has been a totally refreshing experience in knowledge, giving way to bonding among my ‘classmates’. Professional Development session par excellence!

–Freda


My journey to Ghana was something I never expected. I never expected to be changed by walking inside the dungeons of the enslaved and having the opportunity to talk with students in Ghana. I do not want my journey to stop here and know my role as a teacher will help me continue to spread the history and joy of Ghana.

– Josh


Thanks to WTIG I have gained traditional knowledge and experience like never before. I am now a seasoned, researched teacher.

– Pearl


Ghana is like the “miracle berry” that sweetness the orange – brings peace, unity, rhythm, smiles and sweetness to all she touches!

– Dave


It’s been transforming, informative and impactful with The Witness Tree Institute of Ghana 🇬🇭

The interesting thing about the places we’ve been to, is that they touched on humanity and to me shows that, as humans we don’t live for ourselves but for each other. Together we can develop and together we can conquer what seems to be impossible regardless of our beliefs and race. I am forever grateful for the opportunity given me to learn in diverse ways in order to impact onto my learners.

– Delah


Ends are not bad things, they just mean that something else is about to begin. And there are many things that don't really end, anyway, they just begin again in a new way. Ends are not bad and many ends aren't really an ending; some things are never-ending.

– Delali


From all of us at The Witness Tree Institute of Ghana, thank you so much for following along on our journey! We are grateful to all of the teachers who made the 2021 program remarkable. Until next time, Nante yiye!

The Vision of a Great Man: visiting the W.E.B. DuBois Memorial Centre in Accra

Du Bois being the first African American to earn a Ph.D. from Harvard University in 1895 wasn’t the only thing that caught my attention but his influence as an African American activist.

Delali & Delah outside the Dubois Memorial Centre

Delali & Delah outside the Dubois Memorial Centre

A visit to where he used to reside in Ghana – now a museum in memory of him – made me realize how passionate he was about equality and togetherness.

On the walls of his building are thought provoking and crucial statements he made of which I think generations of today should chance on to bridge the gap to achieve the goals of this noble man.

A hero who will never be forgotten for his immense support, dedication and sacrifice for humanity. He is buried here at the center, in Accra, where he came to live in 1961 at the invitation of President Kwame Nkrumah, and later passed in Ghana in 1963.

Tete and Liz at the burial site of Dubois

Tete and Liz at the burial site of Dubois

Freedom and equality was his hallmark and as a youth, if his visions and aspirations of our noble heroes are not met then their toils and tribulations will be in vain. I have been touched and I’ve realized that until we unite as one people, we shall never get to see the beauty of this world bestowed onto us as humans.

– Delah

So Close, Yet So Far Away: A Ghanian educator rediscovers her home country

So close, yet so far away.

The visit to the Coco Research Institute of Ghana CRIG was refreshing after reliving the slave trade at the Slave Castles and the Slave River. It was a mixed feeling of anger, hatred, pain, anguish, sadness, hope, determination, forgiveness, joy… Just indescribable!

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The Door of No Return at the Elmina Castle, Cape Coast

The Door of No Return at the Elmina Castle, Cape Coast

Then the research station – a symbol of restoration. So refreshing. The ornamental plant by the missionaries became money when Tetteh Quarshie returned with a different mindset to turn it around into a plantation farm.

Today all we know is “chocolate day” on Valentines Day. I think we have to look at cocoa differently now and make it something that can be found in any home at anytime. Thank you, Mr. Cocoa! We will join the revolution and the crusade!

Michael Owusu Manu, aka “Mr. Cocoa” and director of the Cocoa Research Institute, taking the cohort on a tour of the Institute.

Like entering back through the Door of Return, this program has been a return to Ghana for me.

Freda looking into the cocoa bean fermentation bins at the Cocoa Research Institute of Ghana

Freda looking into the cocoa bean fermentation bins at the Cocoa Research Institute of Ghana

– FREDA QUAO

Learning a New Language: The process and messages of Adinkra

Welcome! Akwaaba! My name is Julie Siftar, hailing from Boston, MA, where I am an art teacher at the Carroll school. Let’s take an inside look at our visit to the craft village of Ntonso, where we learned from local artisans about the Adinkra stamp tradition.

Chart of Adinkra symbols and their meanings

Chart of Adinkra symbols and their meanings

Adinkra are traditional symbols that convey messages, concepts and metaphors, often printed onto woven cloth.

Julie in front of Adinkra clothe hanging at the Ntonso craft village

Julie in front of Adinkra clothe hanging at the Ntonso craft village

The earliest ones were created in the 1700s, which are on display in the British Museum, rather than in their origin of Ghana. At the Ntonso craft village we walked through the process of how they create Adinkra stamps:

First, the bark of the Boadie tree is soaked until it is softened

It is pounded into a pulp with a large mortar and pestle, just like how Fufu is made!

Cook it down for many hours into a thick, tar-like ink.

While still warm, prepare the fabric and stamps. The Adinkra symbols are carved into stamps, which are made out the calabash gourd.

After a careful dip into the warm gooey ink, apply it with gentle pressure to the fabric, which is held steady over a piece of foam.

Until finally the piece is complete!

The stamps I chose will serve as the classroom symbols for my art students back in the U.S.

Funtumfunafu denkyrmfunafu - The Sharing of One Stomach and yet they fight over food. Because we are sharing an art studio and materials together, this symbol is meant to encourage a respectful sharing of our classroom resources.

Akoma - the heart - the symbol of patience and endurance

Ntesie or Mate Masie - I have heard and kept quiet - the symbol of wisdom and knowledge

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A page from my sketchbook of the Adinkra symbol meaning, “It is the heart and not the horn that leads a goat to bully” along with intentions for my teaching practice in the upcoming school year.

– Julie Siftar

Return

Moved by the messages on the wall at Slave River written to the ancestors of returning African American and Caribbean people leads me to wonder about their Return. What does returning bring up, give, take? I also wonder about my Dutch, English and German forbears. Would they be surprised that a descendant of theirs has found truth and beauty in Ghana? That she yearns for equity, justice and repair in the US where patterns of dominance and oppression persist?

Messages from descendants of the African Diaspora at the site of The Slave River

Messages from descendants of the African Diaspora at the site of The Slave River

“Ghana won’t have true independence until all of Africa is liberated” echoes what we hear across the Atlantic - that all lives won’t matter until Black lives matter.

One of the messages at Slave River reads “Thank you for your sacrifice. Hope to make you proud.”

The shore and pooling waters at The Slave River

The shore and pooling waters at The Slave River

What ancestral qualities are at work in my work, I wonder?

Liz in front of the message wall

Liz in front of the message wall

Traveling from Kumasi to Koforidua yesterday through lush vegetation, steep, jagged hills, past dusty, rusty-roofed towns, sellers’ stalls, towers of clay pots, wooden mortars, baskets of produce, charcoal-making, palm oil making operations, weavers, orange groves, I am loving this land and her people. I dance with a lady who sells me avocados. And then I realize another injustice - that a white American, in love with Ghana, is feeling “Africa being born in her” while America won’t let herself be born in so many of her black and brown children - who I would love to call my brothers and sisters.

A farewell gesture from the avocado vendor and dance partner on the way to Koforidua

A farewell gesture from the avocado vendor and dance partner on the way to Koforidua

–Liz Updike Cobblah

Teacher as Student

“He who dares to teach must never cease to learn.” ~ John Cotton Dana

At the beginning of each school year, I ask my students to complete an activity called, “The Real Me”. In addition to sharing interesting things about themselves and what they are good at, my students are also asked to share struggles, worries, and goals. 

In my classroom, I am the teacher… here in Ghana, I am the student, eager to learn and experience new things. 

So, who is “The Real Me”?

My name is Sara Jones. I teach contemporary U.S. history in Titusville, a small town in rural Northwest Pennsylvania. I have been teaching for more than 25 years, but have been a student for twice as long… for my entire life. 

Akwaaba - Welcome! From the moment I arrived in Ghana, I have felt welcomed by the WTIG group, Ghanaians working with our group, and by Ghana itself. 

I celebrate my birthday every year, however, I have never felt any significance in the day of the week on which I was born. The idea that in Ghana all those born on the same day of the week share a connection and are given a day name to reflect this is also welcoming. And so I am Ama, Saturday.  

Ga Naming Ceremony

I have also learned new perspectives on music, that music begins at birth with the cry of a newborn baby and that nature provides its own music, like the crashing of waves on the beach. And to celebrate this music, we have learned to dance in a way that tells a story. 

Learning a regional dance at Legon University

As a historian, I teach my students how to work with primary sources. What better primary source is there than standing where events have shaped the history of many nations? This was the experience while visiting St. George’s and Cape Coast castles, as well as Slave River. Here we learned about the enslaved people that were taken by force from their home and families to far away lands. It was incredibly emotional to stand where these people once stood and hear their stories.

At the entrance to the site of The Slave River

At the entrance to the site of The Slave River

Stepping out of our comfort zone is not easy, but often necessary to grow as a person, as a student, as a teacher. The canopy walk at Kakum National Park was just such an experience for me. As scary as it was while I was walking across the rope bridges, the encouragement of my WTIG colleagues kept me going. And the sense of accomplishment in successfully making it to the end made it worth the effort.

Crossing the canopy bridge at Kakum National Park

Crossing the canopy bridge at Kakum National Park

This year’s WTIG group is made up of both U.S. and Ghanaian educators. What more valuable learning experience could there be while visiting Ghana for the first time? I am learning from them about their country, culture, and traditions, not just in a classroom, but in conversations while sharing a meal, traveling, and in the in between spaces of the day. And I hope they are learning from me as well.

The WTIG 2021 Cohort at Cape Coast Castle

The WTIG 2021 Cohort at Cape Coast Castle

Historian, teacher, student, colleague, friend … this is the real me, enriched by my experience in Ghana and excited to share with my students what I have learned.

- Sara Jones

Kumasi

Been wonderful today visiting this wonderful museum in Kumasi and seeing some of the power regalia and other stuffs being displayed for generations to learn a lesson from.

Entrance to the King’s Palace

Entrance to the King’s Palace

So much excitement meeting the legend Agya Koo Nimo whom I've worked with some years ago at U.G Legon at the music department.

We’ve had some fun along the way, too.

But what suddens me was the site of the slave river and the cruelty done to them. 

I kept on asking these questions without any answer:

1. Why did the slave trader do this to our ancestors?

2. Why did they allowed themselves without fighting as a group and not individuals?

3. Why did some of the natives and chiefs betrayed their own?

I need someone to give me an answer. Why?😳😳😳😭😭😭😤😤😡👽👹🦴💀💀💀

– Cidi